Women's and girls' hats in Rus'. History of Russian costume

In the old days in Rus', girls and women loved luxurious outfits no less than today. Particular attention was paid to headdresses. They were made from the best fabrics, decorated with silver and gold embroidery, sequins, beads and pearls. Our review contains 18 photographs of headdresses that women wore a couple of hundred years ago.

Women's headdress occupied a special place in Russian folk costume. Looking at it, one could determine what area its owner was from, how old she was, her social and marital status.

Traditionally, the shape of the Russian folk headdress was combined with the hairstyle. Girls braided their hair, and their headdress most often looked like a bandage or a hoop with an open crown.

Married peasant women braided two braids and rolled them into a bun at the front. The headdress was supposed to completely hide the stripes of a married woman. Traditional women's headdresses in Russian folk costume consisted, as a rule, of several parts.

Kichka is a part of a kichka-shaped headdress on a solid base. Kichkas were distinguished by a variety of styles. They were horned, hoof-shaped, spade-shaped, bowler-shaped, in the form of a hoop, oval, semi-oval - the imagination of the solutions was limitless.

In the Ryazan, Tula, Kaluga, and Oryol provinces, as a rule, they wore horned kichkas. In Vologda and Arkhangelsk - hoof-shaped kitties. The latter researchers associate it with the Finno-Ugric ancestors (X - XIII centuries), who had similar headdresses.

Soroka was the name of the top decorated headdress. It was made of fabric and stretched over a kitty.
Another element of the kitty-shaped headdress is the back of the head. It was made of fabric (usually brocade) or beaded. The back of the head was tied at the back of the magpie to hide the woman's hair at the back of the pussycat.

The kokoshnik, unlike the magpie, was only a festive headdress, including a wedding one. In the northern provinces it was often decorated with pearls. If the kichka was worn by peasant women, then merchant women and bourgeois women wore a kokoshnik on their heads.

Kokoshniks were made in monasteries or by craftswomen in large villages and sold at fairs. By the end of the 19th century, the kokoshnik almost completely replaced the kichka, and then the kokoshnik left the arena, giving way to scarves. At first, scarves were tied over the headdress, and later as a separate headdress, pinned or tied under the chin.

You can imagine what Russian women looked like by looking at the gallery from.

If we look at Russian folk costumes, the amazing headdresses immediately catch our eye. Oddly enough, it was by their appearance that one could determine the age, marital status and status of the owner.

There are many types of headdresses in Russian folk costume. Let's look at the most famous and original ones.

Russian folk women's headdresses

According to customs, married women had to completely hide their hair. Here are several types of hats:

Kichka is an elegant headdress, which is distinguished by its variety and decorative design. They were mainly made from linen or brocade, and also decorated with gilded or silver threads.
Klobuk is a cone-shaped hat with a pointed top, decorated with beads, buckles and pendants.
Kokoshnik is a wedding headdress that was made of hard material. Usually it was covered with expensive shiny fabric and decorated with pearls, precious stones and ribbons.

Unmarried girls wore:

A hoop is a fabric-covered circle made of tree bark or cardboard, decorated with beads or stones.
A wreath is a decorative hoop made of fresh or artificial flowers.
The dressing was made of thick fabric trimmed with gold or colored threads. The ends could be tied in the form of a bow.

Russian folk hats

A hat with earflaps is the most common winter headdress in Russia. It got its name from the presence of turn-down headphones that are tied on the chin, crown or back of the head.

Among the upper classes, hats with a fabric top and fur trim were popular. Usually, with such a hat they wore ubrus - a towel headdress that was pinned with special pins.

Russian folk headdresses are very beautiful and rich, which is why some models are still popular today.

K.E. Makovsky “Boyaryshna” 1884 Women’s and girls’ hats in Rus'.

For centuries in Rus', the entire female outfit was “talking” and therefore what a woman’s head was decorated with could be judged about her place of residence, occupation, origin and status.
Each province had its own fashion and decorated the headdress in a special way. By the headdress one could recognize the social status of its owner. Moreover, it was by the headdress that one could tell whether a young lady or a married woman was walking down the street. The headdress also spoke of the wealth of its owner. This was evident because of the techniques and materials used to decorate the headdress of the Russian beauty.

Girl's headdress

Women's and girls' hats in Rus'. Girl's festive costume. XIX century. Nizhny Novgorod province Headband, sundress, soul warmer

Headdresses were sewn depending on the status of the woman. It must be said that the girl’s headdress could be quite varied. It was called a crown, a ribbon, a bee, a whisk, a cloth. In addition to these names, there were others.

Women's and girls' hats in Rus'. An ancient girl's headdress - a crown of bangs

Headdresses were made of fabric and brocade, which was folded like a ribbon. The koruna was considered the most solemn headdress. We can call it a crown and its base was made of wire, foil or even simple cardboard. The base was covered with fabric and embroidered with beads, pearls and stones. Mother of pearl, coins and shells were also used... Everything that looked beautiful and harmonious on each specific product.

Girl's festive costume. XIX century. Vologda province Shirt, sundress, bib, headband, shawl

The korunas in the northern provinces were especially beautiful. They were decorated with precious stones. Crowns were worn by marriageable girls until the 20th century.

Headdress for a married woman.

Women's festive costume. XIX century. Nizhny Novgorod province

“Straight-haired,” that is, only a girl could walk without a headdress, and it was impossible in Rus' to meet a bare-haired woman, that is, a married woman - the head of a clan. Most often, the woman wore a kika. Kika could have “horns” into which dense fabric was inserted. These “horns” on the headdress were supposed to protect the woman and give her strength and fertility. The older the woman became, the smaller the horns on the kick became.

Russian: Votyachka. 1838
1838
Source
Russian: Album “Clothes of the Russian State”
English: Album “Clothes Of Russian Country”

Magpie.

Women's Old Believer festive costume. Chernukha village, Nizhny Novgorod province Shirt, sundress, belt, apron-cuff, magpie, chest decoration “beard”, chest decoration – “viteyka”.

The magpie's headdress could be brocade or velvet. The magpie was decorated with pearls and gold embroidery. Young women wore magpies on patronal feast days and treasured them as the most expensive outfit. Magpie was worth more than a thoroughbred horse.

Kokoshnik.

The most famous headdress is perhaps the kokoshnik. Today it is mistakenly confused with a girl’s headdress - a comb and a crown. But the kokoshnik is a purely female headdress!
To make a kokoshnik, they took quilted or glued canvas, which was covered with fabric with embroidery. Often the fabric was embroidered with beads and stones.
The edges of the kokoshnik were decorated with pearl threads - ryasny. In front there was a net of pearls. On the kokoshnik one could wear silk or woolen scarves - ubrus. Nowadays, women also wear hats, but now it is almost impossible to determine where the beauty came from and whether she is married. There was no such confusion in Rus'.
Today you can see real modern headdresses in Moscow in Gostiny Dvor at the address: Gostiny Dvor entrance from Varvarka, building 3, entrance 15. In Gostiny Dvor there is a representative office of the Russian fashion designer Valentina Averyanova, who continues to preserve the life of Russian headdresses. Today you can buy or order a kokoshnik, kiku, crown, koruna or other headdress corresponding to your status in order to continue the traditions of Rus' in the modern world.

Where to go wearing such a headdress today? You ask. It depends on your type of activity, lifestyle and courage. Today, Russian women's or girls' headdresses are purchased for important celebrations such as weddings or public holidays, meetings with heads of state, or for themed parties and balls. And someone wears a Russian headdress to church services...

The choice is yours!

Russian headdress - bandage

Koruna - wedding headdress of Anastasia Averyanova

crown in Russian style

Women's and girls' headdresses in Rus': The traditional modern headdress is the crown.

Women's and girls' headdresses in Rus' Modern headdress - bandage.

Women's and girls' hats in Rus'. Modern crown

Wedding crown, mantle and armband

Women's and girls' hats in Rus'. Modern headband

Linen embroidery, glass embroidery

Boyar dress and crown from Valentina Averyanova

Head accessory: modern headband

Women's and girls' headdresses in Rus': a modern crown

crown in Russian style

crown and lace warmer with hood

Educational and methodological material on folk art

To help the manager

folklore group

Ostaptsova Tatyana Nikolaevna

teacher of the department of musical folklore

MAU DO of the city of Kaliningrad "Children's Music School named after. R.M. Gliere"

2016

Introduction

The peasantry is the keeper of aesthetic ideas and traditions in folk costume

Russian traditional clothing is the custodian of primordial folk culture, the heritage of our people. The variety of forms and types, the bright decorativeness of the artistic design, the originality of the ornament and the techniques of its execution are characteristic features of Russian folk costume for many centuries. Photographs of rich and unique images of Russian clothing allow us to show the beauty of the compositional design of a peasant costume, the expressiveness of the decor of its components - hats, jewelry, shoes; ingenuity in the use of materials, ranging from precious metals and pearls to fabric appliqués and dyed feathers.

Folk costume has come a long way in its development, closely connected with the history and aesthetic views of its creators. It is an important element of material culture and a true phenomenon of great art, synthesizing various types of decorative creativity, right up to the middle XX century, which brought characteristic traditional elements of cut, ornamentation, use of materials and decorations characteristic of Russian clothing in the past.

Goal of the work: consider the characteristic features of women's Russian folk traditional costume, classify the various elements of folk costume, consider the richness of its forms and types.

Women's headdress

In Russian folk costume, special attention was paid to women's headdress. The headdresses of Russian women were distinguished by their richness and variety. This was due to the highly developed symbolic function of this part of the costume. The shape of the headdress and the nature of its decoration depended on the age and marital status of the woman, as well as on her place of residence.

For married women, the custom of covering their heads was strictly observed; the girls walked with their heads uncovered, their hair loosely (withXIXV. already rarely seen, unless only for a crown) or braided hair, the headdress was certainly with an open crown and had the shape of a circle or semicircle. It also differed in the material it was made of (metal wire with pendants on it, a ribbon, a scarf folded into a ribbon, a piece of braid, brocade, fabric with embroidery, etc.).

The shape of the headdress was always combined with the hairstyle. Girls braided their hair in a braid, Russian married peasant women braided two braids and laid them on their heads or rolled their hair into a bun at the front. Researchers admit that although braiding is a very ancient custom, among married women it was apparently preceded by rolling up hair without first braiding it and wearing loose hair among girls.

Despite the uniformity of shape, girls' headdresses were called differently: wreath, bandage, ribbon, pochelok, bunch, bandage, wreath, koruna, golovodets, etc. Sometimes under the same name there were different types of headdresses, sometimes it happened the other way around - the same type of headdress in It was called differently in different areas. The most common headdress of girls of the Russian North was a bandage, which in the Arkhangelsk province by the middle - endXIXV. “grew” to impressive sizes.

The most common were girls' dresses in the form of a crown or hoop. Depending on the place of existence, the material for their manufacture varied. In the southern regions of Russia, fabrics, braids, ribbons, beads, buttons, sequins, and feathers were widely used.The color scheme of these headbands, headbands, and wreaths is bright and rich. Dyed bird feathers, including peacock feathers, were used not only in the headdress itself, but also as its additional parts.
Headbands, ribbons, laces made of brocade and braid, damask fabric and strips of calico with rich embroidery with gold thread, typical of the northern provinces, were made wide, on a thick base. Sometimes they were decorated with a lower part or duckweed made of river pearls, chopped mother-of-pearl, and beads that descended to the forehead. Volumetric openwork “crowns with cities”, crowns, bangs, decorated with pearls, mother-of-pearl, precious and colored stones, and foil have become widespread.

The wedding crown was a dense rim with a braid, under which protruded an openwork wreath, decorated with pearls, mother-of-pearl, beads, with inserts of foil, glass, and sometimes sewn on brooches. A variant of the all-Russian girl's headdress was a factory-made scarf folded into a rope and tied with the ends back. It was complemented by beaded pendants.

The decoration of the headdress and its color scheme gave an idea of the woman’s age and place of birth. Before the birth of a child, women wore very bright kichkas, and in old age - with simple ornaments. Residents of the Ryazan and Tambov provinces preferred dark red and black; Oryol and Kursk - bright red, green and yellow colors. They were usually decorated with embroidery made of wool, cotton or lye with the addition of sequins and beads. The headdresses of women living in the northern regions of Russia were especially elegantly decorated. They used chopped mother-of-pearl and freshwater pearls, colored pearls and bugles.

Headdresses of the Pskov and Olonets provinces. XIX century.

Kichka or kika is an ancient headdress of a married woman, which, unlike a girl’s “crown,” completely hid her hair. Kichka was also the name for the forehead part of the entire structure, which was duplicated with hemp or birch bark for greater rigidity and covered with elegant fabric on top.

Together with the “magpie” and the “back of the head,” the kitchka was an integral part of a complex headdress. It was the kitschka that determined his main features. The headdress of a married woman could include up to 12 different elements and reach a weight of five kilograms.

There were various variations of this dress:

In Ryazan, as well as the southern provinces, along with flat kitties, with barely visible horns on their headdresses, there are headdresses with horns up to thirty centimeters high. In the Tula province, kichkas were modified through an additional complex design of several vertically fixed layers of gathered ribbons, giving the impression of a lush, bright fan.

Magpies and kitches of the Ryazan, Tula, Voronezh and Kursk provinces.

Embroidery with painting, set and satin stitch with multi-colored silk, wool, cotton thread with the addition of sparkles and beads was widely used. Just like the magpie, made of red and velvet, the back of the head was covered over the entire surface with dense embroidery, often complemented by gold embroidery. The front part of the magpie was decorated with a strip of shiny braid, “tufts” of drake feathers. Bundles of brightly colored poultry feathers, tucked into the side of a headdress, and goose down balls, “guns,” attached to the cheek or ear, became widespread. Sometimes the ears were covered with ear pads or wings with braid, braid, beads, and sparkles.

Embroidery provided comprehensive information about a woman’s age. The headdresses of young women before the birth of a child were most brightly decorated. Gradually, the pattern became more and more restrained; old women wore magpies with white or sparse black embroidery.

Women's headdresses in the northern provinces of Russia, which had the general name "kokoshnik", differed significantly in their appearance from those in the south. Unlike magpies, they were made to order by professional craftswomen from factory fabrics. The forms of northern headwear, despite the unifying origin and name, were very diverse even in nearby areas.

The shape of the crest was different in different provinces: in the Kargopol district of the Olonets province, the kokoshnik was made in the shape of a cap with an elongated headband and blades covering the ears. A layer of chopped mother-of-pearl descended onto the forehead. The Vologda kokoshnik, called a collection, was distinguished by numerous assemblies over the headband. The Arkhangelsk kokoshnik had a rigid oval shape with abundant decoration at the top; in the Novgorod and Tver provinces it had a helmet shape.

Kokoshniks, from left to right: A - two-horned kokoshnik of the Arzamas district of the Nizhny Novgorod province; B - one-horned kokoshnik, Kostroma province; C - kokoshnik; D - kokoshnik, Moscow province, E - kokoshnik, Vladimir province, F - kokoshnik in the form of a cylindrical hat with a flat bottom (with a scarf) G - Double-comb, or saddle-shaped, kokoshnik (profile view).

In most provinces, expensive kokoshniks were worn with scarves. On special occasions, scarves with dense floral patterns embroidered with gold and silver threads were used. The drawing took up half of the scarf. When putting it on, its ends were folded under the chin. The centers for the production of gold-embroidered scarves were Kargopolye and certain areas of the Nizhny Novgorod and Tver provinces.

Women's scarves and shawls of the Russian North. The end of the 19th – the beginning of the 20th century.

By the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries, kokoshniks were replaced by easier-to-make povoiniki and collections made from factory fabrics.

Women's end headwearXIX-started XX century

Conclusion

Interest in studying material on Russian traditional folk costume appeared relatively recently. Only in the 19th century was the idea of compiling the history of Russian folk costume born, and its collection and study took place in the second half of the 19th century. Museums and individual connoisseurs began to show interest in collecting folk costumes that were disappearing from everyday life. In the middle of the 19th century, on the pages of the Sovremennik magazine, the question of the historical significance of folk costume, its internal meaning and significance in general human development was considered. At the beginning of the 20th century, an International Costume Exhibition was organized in St. Petersburg, at which the Russian section of the exhibition was interestingly presented. The exhibition widely demonstrated historical and modern costumes from the central provinces of Russia; the high artistic taste of the clothing creators was distinguished, which was reflected in the cut, ornaments, color combinations, etc. In Moscow, at the beginning of the 20th century, a society of lovers of Russian clothing arose.

Without a deep study of folk traditional art, the progressive development of modern art is impossible. This also applies to the creation of costumes - household and stage. Traditional costume is a priceless and integral heritage of the culture of the people.Collections of folk costumes stored in museum funds are a kind of academy of knowledge and creative ideas formodern fashion designers and couturiers.

The soul of the people and their ideas about beauty are reflected in Russian folk clothing...The more closely you study Russian folk costume, the more values you find in it, and it becomes a figurative chronicle of our ancestors, which, through the language of color, shape, and ornament, reveals to us many of the hidden secrets and laws of beauty of folk art.

List of used literature:

Grekov B. D., Artamonov M. I. History of culture of ancient Rus'- M.,1951.

Gorozhanina S.V., Zaitseva L.M. Russian folk wedding costume- M.,2003.

Efimova L. V. Russian folk costume (18-20 centuries) - St. Petersburg, 1989.

Zabylin M. Russian people, their customs, rituals, legends, superstitions and poetry - M.: Publication by bookseller M. Berezin, 1880.

Strekalov S. . A. Russian historical clothes from X before XIII century - St. Petersburg, 1877.

Shangina I.I., Sosnina N.N. Russian traditionalcostume: Illustrated Encyclopedia– M.: Art, 2006.

Internet sources:

Illustrations:

Scanned photographs from the above literature

http:// img- fotki. yandex. ru/ get/3813/ hor- j.23/0_30582_4 da281 a5_ XL. jpg